IMG_0681
Distance Elapsed Time Moving Time Average Speed Max Speed Elevation Gain Calories Burned
207
km
09:51
hours
08:26
hours
24.56
km/h
40.46
km/h
243
m
3,428
kcal

🌲🙏🌧️Weert – Scherpenheuvel – Aarschot

28 July 2023

On the last Friday of July in the murkiest of weathers I descended to Belgium again to sight three highlights in the Hageland. Since I became a bit of a fair weather rider over the last two years I was rooting for the rain to stay away for most of the day—franatically checking the weather radar the days before. A few spotty showers were predicted, and that was good enough.
The roads from Weert to Diest looked mysterious under dark skies with drizzle. I passed Kleine Brogel air base and the extensive woods in the Vallei van de Zwarte Beek. My rim brakes were hampered by the water and grime from the roads so I dropped my tempo. The province of Vlaams Limburg historically was dominated by the mining economy. These days many houses look sombre and most roads are run-down. At one point in Koersel road works prevented my passing and I had to find a diversion. My Wahoo refused to activate its rerouting function. The spotty showers that were predicted had long since turned into constant precipitation.

IMG_0643
IMG_0644
The woods south of Weert were especially murky today.
IMG_0645
I could not predict that later on Herentals had a surprise in store for me. 📢
IMG_0646
Buildings at Kleine Brogel Air Base with high fences around the perimeter.
IMG_0647
IMG_0648
Belgian signage that warns cyclists. Very different from the Dutch situation that shifts responsibility to the stronger traffic users.
IMG_0649
Hidden from view (1): the Torenhoeve (tower farm) in Peer.
IMG_0650
The path through the Leopoldsburg military domain. You are probably wondering like me who we should give right of way to ...
IMG_0651
Howitzers? Tanks? Horses? Infantry? Bullets?
IMG_0652
Another mystery: a hedge straight across the path. To the left an elephant path bypasses the hedge.
IMG_0653
Koersel. Note the concrete slabs used for the road. Many Belgian towns like this one have an unassuming quality that I like in spite of their melancholy.
IMG_0654
Trying to figure out how to divert in Koersel I was looking right at some ‘koterieën’ (annexes).

What a change when I reached the Albert Canal. The sky opened up and the sun shone on the brand new white bridge of Beringen. There even was some nice asphalt to ride on, though not for long. I paused for a banana in Paal and looked at the peculiar twisted steel column on the Sint-Jan-de-Doper church square. Indeed a work of art that is aptly named ‘Aardstaal’ (earth steel) and refers to the region’s past.

IMG_0655
The brand new Beringen bridge (2021) across the Albert Canal.
IMG_0657
A bit of nice fresh asphalt along the Albert Canal. It ends were the road turns left.
IMG_0658
The church square of Paal with a statue that refers to the region’s past.

When I entered Diest streets were still wet. With ease I scaled the steep roads up to the Allerheiligenweg cobble climb that leads to the Citadel. Yet the cobbles themselves were so skiddy that my back wheel slipped. It seemed wiser to hike. The rain came down heavily on the stretch to Scherpenheuvel: a long straight road that leads over the top of a hill, where I got a glimpse of the rolling landscape.

IMG_0659
The house with the stepped gable is the Refuge house of Averbode Abbey.
IMG_0660
Just past the Allerheiligenkapel begin the cobbles. They were far too slippery for my tastes today!
IMG_0661
The distance back to street level. No cobbles but concrete. 😁
IMG_0662
The fortified wall of the citadel.
IMG_0663
The road from Diest to Scherpenheuvel.
IMG_0665
The view on top of the hill. The lush landscape looked inviting in spite of the rain.

Under the trees next to the Scherpenheuvel Basilica I found shelter for the rain. The tower bell rang 1 o’clock. I was not progressing as fast and would likely shorten my route later on. After enjoying the town for a bit I pushed on to Aarschot where I paused next to the river Demer. My route would next take me north through Herentals (known for Wout van Aert) and Turnhout, back to the Netherlands. What an intense yet superb encounter with the Hageland this had been! I hope to return in better weather.

IMG_0667
The little park in front of the Basilica of Our Lady of Scherpenheuvel.
The tower of the Basilica strikes one.
IMG_0670
The dome of the basilica has seven sides referring to the seven sorrows of Maria.
IMG_0673
The Diestsestraat in Aarschot.
IMG_0674
A ‘fietsstraat’. In the Netherlands these are a fairly recent development. This signage looks old but maybe it is just not that resilient.
IMG_0675
The tower of the Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk in Aarschot.
IMG_0676
The Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk from the eastern side across the river Demer.
IMG_0677
The path along the Demer.

On the Kempen-Hageland bike path I was able to make up some time. Herentals had a surprise in store for me. The city centre was blocked from motorised traffic. From loudspeakers on lampposts a lady announcer was interviewing little girls who allegedly were participating in a run. I was expecting to see a square filled with young children, or cross the race parcours, but my route was avoiding the Grote Markt were all this was happening. What an utterly surreal experience. Why didn’t I make an audio recording?

IMG_0678
Passing under the ‘Uilenbrug (owl’s bridge) in Ramsel on the Kempen-Hageland cycling route on a former train track.
IMG_0679
Topiary on the yard of a garden care service in Ramsel.
IMG_0680
The mighty Albert Canal, here in Herentals. It connects Antwerp with Liège and was constructed from 1930 to 1939.
IMG_0681
The city centre of Herentals with the Sint-Waldetrudis church. A female voice interviewing little girls rang from loudspeakers on lampposts.
IMG_0682
On Hulzen road between Herentals and Poederlee.

From Turnhout onwards a long straight cycle path took me to Baarle, and another one after that to Tilburg. Just before Waalwijk I stopped to see what my options where. Taking a train from Zaltbommel seemed like a good one. This would take some 40km out of my route and get me home to recover.
I pressed on, passing Waalwijk, Elshout and crossing the bridge over the Bergsche Maas near Heusden. The Bergsche Maasdijk was spectacular in the changing light with dark clouds on the horizon.
As I reached Zaltbommel station just before my train departure the check-in poles were out of order. While I was pondering how to solve this I should just have gone for the train. Because when I did, I was only seconds too late. Darn! I jumped back on the bike and continued to Geldermalsen where I caught the next stop train to Utrecht. One happy cat with another perspective-changing experience under his top tube. 😺

IMG_0683
Heading north out of Turnhout.
IMG_0684
Lush fields just outside of Baarle, on another perfectly linear cycle route.
IMG_0685
I stopped to admire the artistic decorations on this 1950s Tilburg apartment complex.
IMG_0686
Out of Elshout.
IMG_0688
Hidden from view (2): Ammersoyen Castle.